Masai Mara and Serengeti Wildebeest Migration Update- October 2021
Our short report on how the wildebeest migration pattern between Serengeti and Masai Mara was like from May to September 2021
The migration of almost 2 million wildebeests, Zebras and Topis between the Serengeti and Masai Mara Eco system is without doubt the world’s most spectacular wildebeest spectacle. The highlights of this never-ending wildebeest journey are the annual calving season in the short grass plains of southern Serengeti between February and March and the mass movements and River crossings between Serengeti and Masai Mara from July to October.
This year, the wildebeest migration has lived up to its thrill once again.
The main motivation for the mass movement covering thousands of Kilometers is search for food and water. With scattered rains having fallen both on Serengeti and Masai Mara throughout the year, it means that there has been enough pasture in both parks. The wildebeests were therefore not in hurry to arrive in Masai Mara since there was adequate pasture in Serengeti.
From May, thousands of wildebeests could be sighted headed for Western Serengeti, from where they proceeded to the Grumeti, Fort Ikoma and Ikorongo areas before settling in Kogatende in northern Serengeti. From June, the scouts (mainly Zebras and small herds of Topis and Wildebeests) begun arriving in Masai Mara.
By mid-July, a good number of the migrant herds had already crossed over to Kenya. Big herds could be seen around the Sand River and central Masai Mara. Daily River Crossings were been recorded at the Looking Out Mara River Crossing points and the main crossing near Purrungat bridge as the marauding Gnus and Zebras made that dive of life or death heading towards the Mara Triangle or back to the main reserve.
On the other hand, big herds could still be sighted in Kogatende, northern Serengeti as they grazed or crossed the river several times, heading north or south. The ones that headed further north snaked their way to the amazingly beautiful Lamai Wedge where they spent several weeks grazing.
In early August, several big herds were congregated in central Masai Mara and predator vs prey action was in full swing as Lions and Cheetahs made daily kills. The famous Tano Bora Cheetah coalition (now 4 after they kicked one out of the group) could be seen by lucky tourists and guides as they made a kill every few hours. This was also reported among some Lion prides. By this time, Masai and northern Serengeti were full of wildebeest and Zebra carcass and Hyenas, Jackals and Vultures were having a field day enjoying plenty of food.
By mid-August, the wildebeests that had followed the Lamai Wedge route begin pushing further into the Mara Triangle. The most interesting part about this was that they went directly to the Triangle avowing the traditional route that would see them cross the Mara River inside the reserve. By end of August, the biggest part of the migrant herds was settled within the Mara Triangle with only a few scattered herds being reported in the main reserve.
Hundreds upon hundreds of thousands (probably up to a million) could be seen all the way from the Egyptian Goose dam extending all the way towards Baghdad Pond, Mara Serena Safari Lodge up to Kichwa Tembo road with views of congregated herds being witnessed right from the road side to kilometers far away, with the Oloololo escarpment in the horizon, forming the perfect background for captivating photo images.
The Masai Mara, currently enjoying unexpected rains and with its short grass plains full of juicy pasture, the herds that had made their way back towards Serengeti or even stayed there are being sighted headed back to Masai Mara as from late September. River crossings are being witnessed in northern Serengeti as several massive herds make a push towards the Masai Mara while others head the opposite direction into Serengeti.
It will be interesting to trail the migration and see how long they will stay in Masai Mara this year since the land of mottled plains is enjoying rains and has enough pasture, meaning that they might decide to stay until November, unless the Gnu instincts kick in and remind them that they need to rush and settle back in southern Serengeti on time for the calving season.
Stay tuned right here and on our FACEBOOK and INSTAGRAM pages for more updates from both the Serengeti and Masai Mara.
Feel free to contact us on: holidays@esseniasafaris.co.ke for a tailor made and privately guided Masai Mara and Serengeti Wildebeest Migration safari.
Lolparpit the Lion; A Legend of Masai Mara
“Death was afraid of him because he had the heart of a Lion”.
These were the words that came to mind when I finally learnt of the death of Lorparpit, (Olorparpit), one of the two dominant males leading the Enkoyanai Pride in Masai Mara National Reserve.
Photos of Lolparpit seemingly overwhelmed by life and on his death bed emerged around 13th September 2020. When one of our guides shared the photos, i thought it would be a matter of days before the sun finally set on the King. He was old, injured, thin, starving, and could not move, just lying down- motionless. Little did we know that this warrior who knew nothing but battling and conquering ever since he took over the Enkoyanai Pride would still fight to live for another 60 odd days. Death surely seemed afraid of him.
Lolparpit (means hairy and fiery one in Masai language) finally bowed down to life and breathed his last due to old age on 18th November 2020. Sad as it is, it is encouraging to know that he died of natural causes, in his own territory (Double Cross) between the main reserve and the Olare Motorogi Conservancy border.
Even at the time of his death, Olbarnoti – his brother with whom they had formed a formidable duo coalition and the rest of the pride were still nearby. Lolparpit is believed to have been born early in 2005 so he died aged almost 16 years, arguably the longest a Lion can survive the tough, ruthless and harsh conditions in the untamed African wilderness.
Always the ladies’ favorite due to his heavier and darker mane, Lolparpit is a father to many Lionesses and Lions around the Masai Mara, including the famous 6 Pack. In the Lion Kingdom, it is the ladies that choose their mating partner, the future father to her children and Lolparpit’s strong genes made him an easy choice over his equally strong brother. During the years when Lolparpit and Olbarnoti were at different times in charge of the Enkoyanai, Moniko, Iseketa and Oldikdik pride, they sired many cubs which they also protected up to independence, something which is not achieved by many. This is the offspring which will now continue his legacy.
Lolparpit was so revered and feared by other Lions in the vast Masai Mara Reserve, that even at his old age, no Lion could dare cross into the territory that he jealously guarded and protected together with his equally old but majestic Olbarnoti- his coalition partner and blood brother.
They survived hard times, notably the drought which ravaged Masai Mara in 2009, leaving many animals- both predator and prey dead and the many fights they got into while jealously protecting their territory.
It is during one of Lolparpit’s escapades, inspired by the desire to conquer more prides and expand his territory that he suffered an injury that would stay with him until his death. Sometime in 2007, the aging Lolparpit together with Olbarnoti made a daring attempt at taking over the Fig Tree Pride which had the younger and enthusiastic duo Kaka and Maridadi as the men in charge. Knowing fully well that going into a full-blown war might leave them maimed, sometimes for life, Lions will more often prefer to use intimidation as a tactic to dethrone their rivals, rather than a physical encounter. However, Lolparpit’s overzealousness spurred him into going claw for claw, roar for roar, bite for bite even as they exchanged heavy blows of their sledge hammer paws. Lolparpit may have won the battle, but he lost the war, a war that left him with an injury to one of his hind legs. This injury which turned out to be permanent was the beginning of his downfall. With Lolparpit now being weaker, it was now his turn to half-heartedly relinquish his power and leadership of the pride to Olbarnoti, his brother. However, the safety of numbers in his pride kept him fully protected and fed, as Olbarnoti, the Lionesses, sub adults and cubs of the pride always stayed close to Lolparpit until his death.
Needless to say, the coalition duo of Lolparpit and Olbarnoti together with the Musketeers Coalition comprising of Scar Face, Morani, Hunter and Sikio are Masai Mara’s most famous, most followed most successful and most photographed Lion coalitions that thousands of tourists from across the world have visited Masai Mara over the years and spent several days to witness.
We believe that he leaves a legacy in the Lion Kingdom, a legacy that will stand out for years to come.
Mufasa: “A king’s time as ruler rises and falls like the sun. One day, Simba, the sun will set on my time here, and will rise with you as the new king”.
FARE THEE WELL LOLPARIT, THANK YOU FOR THE MEMORIES.
Essenia Safari Experts Ltd is your one stop source for bespoke, expertly crafted and privately guided journeys across Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda.
Please contact us for a tailor-made safari experience that suits your interest, pace and budget.
How to plan and book the best Kenya & Tanzania combined wildlife safari
That Kenya and Tanzania are the top safari destinations that come to mind when many wildlife and adventure safari enthusiasts think of Africa is not much debatable. This is because these two East African countries which border each other offer the most authentic African wildlife safari experiences that give you a rare chance to experience Africa’s untamed wildlife from the front row seat.
The next thing that comes to mind is deciding if to book a safari to Kenya only, to Tanzania only or a safari which combines both. There are so many people out there who still keep on wondering on which of the two countries offers the better safari experience than the other.
To be honest, you can’t compare Kenya and Tanzania like for like, neither can you compare any park in Kenya to another in Tanzania. Every national park you visit will have some similarities to another near it, or even far across the border, but they will not be the same. You will always find a unique thing about each destination that you visit. Case in mind is the Masai Mara National Reserve in Kenya and Serengeti National Park in Tanzania. Although they share the same eco system, you will find both similarities and differences when you visit each. This is why we took our time to write a blog on choosing between a Masai Mara and Serengeti safari. Which park is best between Serengeti and Masai Mara?
Based on our expert advise on the blog and other reasons that we are going to give below, you will note that it is highly advisable to combine a safari to Kenya and Tanzania if you can afford it timewise and budget wise. You don’t have to choose between the two when you can visit both.
With Kenya having over 60 national parks and reserves, and Tanzania boasting of 22 national parks and the world famous Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area, one would be forgiven to think that they will need months to explore the two countries during one visit. That would be a possibility if they were to visit each and every park and reserve. In this blog, we will focus on the highlights / leading parks in Kenya and Tanzania, and a hand-crafted safari itinerary which will ensure that you get the best possible safari experience on a minimum 12 days and maximum 14 days tour.
SAFARI OVERVIEW:
Day 1- Nairobi
Day 2- Lake Nakuru National Park
Day 3- Masai Mara National Reserve
Day 4 and Day 5- Masai Mara
Day 6- Serengeti National Park
Day 7- Serengeti National Park
Day 8- Ngorongoro Crater
Day 9- Lake Manyara National Park
Day 10- Amboseli National Park
Day 11- Amboseli
Day 12- Departure
Nairobi: The Green City in the Sun is East Africa’s most advanced and vibrant city. At least one night here is recommended. This helps kill the jet lag and acclimatize to the local weather for those who may be arriving on long haul flights. Also, most safaris depart at between 0700 hrs and 0730 hrs while a good number of international flights arrive at night. (If you can spare an extra night, the city is full of activities. A day tour to the Elephant Orphanage which is managed by the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and the Giraffe Center where you can get up close with the rare Rothschild’s Giraffe would be a great idea. You may also visit the Nairobi National Museum and try out lunch or dinner at The Carnivore Restaurant or the Karen Blixen Coffee Garden Restaurant).
Lake Nakuru National Park: This is without doubt one of Kenya’s most popular national parks going by the number of both local and international tourists that visit this small park annually. Located about 3.5 hours drive from Nairobi City, the park which also hosts the alkaline Lake Nakuru is a safe refuge for the endangered Rothschild’s Giraffes and both White and Black Rhinos. It is one of the best places in Kenya to see Rhinos, which are part of Africa’s BIG FIVE. The park is home to four of the Big 5; Lion, Rhino, Buffalo and Leopard with only Elephants missing out since its small surface area cannot host the heavy feeding giants without causing a human – wildlife conflict. Seasonally, you will also be able to see the Lesser and Greater Flamingos that inhabit the lake when the alkalinity levels in its waters are high. Yes, you might miss a sighting of a Rhino during your game drives in Masai Mara or Serengeti but you will be very unlucky to miss one in Lake Nakuru, and that is why we have it as a highlight park while on your Kenya and Tanzania combined safari. One night at Lake Nakuru would be enough but you could still add one more if you want to explore the park deeper.
Masai Mara National Reserve: This, together with the adjacent Serengeti are arguably Africa’s leading and best-known parks. Masai Mara boasts of a high Big Cats to area ratio, making it one of the best parks to see Lions, Cheetahs, Leopards without having to drive for tens of kilometers. (Sometimes you even find them within meters of each other). The reserve is home to several Prides of Lions and Cheetah coalitions. Being home to over 90 mammal species and over 450 bird species, the Mara ecosystem offers you an opportunity to sight all of the BIG 5, Giraffes, Hippos, Zebras, Elands, Topis, Crocodiles, Spotted Hyenas, Wildebeests, Jackals, Vultures, Marabou Storks, Eagles, Egrets, Herons, Secretary Bird among others with relevant ease. This, together with the fact that some camps and park entrance fees and other levies are cheaper in Masai Mara compared to Serengeti are the reason we recommend 3 nights in the Mara as it offers you more value for money.
Serengeti National Park: After 3 nights in Masai Mara, we recommend at least 2 nights in the vast Serengeti National Park. Although the parks border each park, tourists have to exit one park and drive for hours to enter the other. This is because there are no official immigration posts at the park’s borders. One has to drive or fly all the way to Isebania / Tarime border crossing point where immigration offices are located. Please note that a drive from Masai Mara to Serengeti can take up to 10 hours. One can fly from Masai Mara to Migori town, from where they will be driven to Tarime border, where they will clear with immigrations and enjoy another short flight to Serengeti. This option is recommended for those who can afford the not so cheap flights between African parks.
It is indeed the dream of every nature and wildlife lover to visit the Serengeti and your game drives here will often exceed your expectations. From Lions to Cheetahs, Buffalos to Elephants, Leopard and Spotted Hyenas (which are the boogey men of the African night), Zebras, various Antelopes and millions of Wildebeests, Serengeti has it all. One moment you will find Lions enjoying a kill and the next moment you might find Cheetahs atop one of the Kopjes as they bask in the sun or scan the plains for the next victim. If you are after witnessing the Wildebeest migration, Serengeti is the place to be especially during the months of April, May, June, September, October and November when the world’s greatest wildlife spectacle unfolds here. The array of bird species is also awe inspiring and you will be thrilled by sightings of Ostrich, Vultures, Eagles’ and hundreds of other bird species not to mention the breathtaking scenery especially at sunrise and sunset.
The Ngorongoro Crater: Popularly referred as “Africa’s last garden of Eden”, a tour of the Ngorongoro Crater Floor and game drives along its flora and fauna rich floor is among the most sought-after safari experiences in East Africa. The wildlife density is very high, and you have a chance to see Black Rhino, Lions, Cheetah and some of the Biggest Elephant Bulls found in Africa, among others. Here, you can spend a night when driving from the Serengeti and enjoy an afternoon crater floor safari. Lodges located within the Crater rims and which offer views of the crater floor can be quite pricey. If your budget allows, spend two nights here, with the afternoon at leisure on the first night, followed by a half day morning crater tour the following morning, and the afternoon relaxing at the lodge as you enjoy the crater views.
Lake Manyara National Park: From the Ngorongoro Crater, we head to Lake Manyara National Park. This together with Serengeti, The Ngorongoro Crater and Tarangire are the most popular parks that make up Tanzania’s northern safari circuit. The forest, open plains, marshes and lake area within this park are home to an array of wildlife species; mammals, birds and reptiles. This small park is one of the best places to see the rare Tree Climbing Lions which can be spotted relaxing on tree branches. It is believed that the higher grounds offer them vintage points from where to monitor prey, and also help them stay away from the Tsetse flies that give them painful bites. One night is recommended since the park is small.
Amboseli National Park: From Lake Manyara, we are heading back to Kenya, this time through the Namanga border crossing point, from where we will drive further to Amboseli National Park. The park is strategically located at the foot of the snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa. Views of Mt. Kilimanjaro on a clear day, and the presence of some of the biggest herds of free ranging Elephants in Africa are the main attractions to Amboseli. Lions, Buffalos, Cheetahs, Hyenas, Wildebeests, Zebras, Giraffes, Jackals and Warthogs are some of the regular sightings here. Hippos can be seen wallowing in the marshes where you also enjoy seeing various bird species. Amboseli is one of the best places to see the Masai Ostrich, The Kori Bustard and the Secretary Bird. As you normally arrive in the evening, it is recommended that you spend two nights so that you spend the next full day exploring various parts of the park, including the Observation Hill where you can enjoy views of the park’s landscape.
From Amboseli, its time to head back to Nairobi. A farewell lunch or dinner at the Carnivore Restaurant is always the icing on the cake that an African safari is, so the Carnivore Experience is highly recommended. From here, you can fly to Diani Beach or Zanzibar for that well-deserved R&R basking under the African sun, as you get some sun in between your toes while walking on the pristine, White Sandy Beaches that East Africa is endowed with.
Before we go into how and where to book your best Kenya and Tanzania safari combination, we need to mention two more parks which we recommend for those who might be having an extra budget and time.
Samburu National Reserve: Popularly known as Kenya’s jewel of the north, Samburu National Reserve is without doubt one of Kenya’s best kept safari secrets. Located in the arid and semi-arid northern Kenya, this reserve attracts less tourists due to the remoteness of its location, yet it can compete pound per pound with other leading parks in East Africa. What makes Samburu stand out though is the presence of the Special 5; animals that only exist north of the Equator and not found on the south. These are the Gerenuk, Reticulated Giraffe, Grevy’s Zebra, Beisa Oryx and the Somali Ostrich. Together with the spectacular scenery of the rugged hills and the contrast between the dry open grassland savannah and the lush vegetation on the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River, these attractions make Samburu a go to destination for travelers with more days to explore East Africa. Minimum 2 nights are recommended and they can be placed between your one-night stay in Nairobi and your 1-night stay at Lake Nakuru National Park.
Tarangire National Park: Another park that we recommend for travelers who have an extra day to spare is Tanzania’s Tarangire National Park. From our above itinerary one can spend a night in Tarangire after their stay at Lake Manyara and before their departure to Amboseli. The park is characterized by its iconic Baobab Trees and vast herds of Elephants and is home to various mammal and bird species that inhabit its woodland grasslands. You may see Lions, Cheetahs, Leopards, Buffalos, Wildebeest and many others as well as north African and European migratory bird species. Tarangire boasts of Tanzania’s second highest concentration of wildlife and is a park well off the beaten track, visited by fewer tourists but with much to offer.
How and where to book the best Kenya and Tanzania Combined Wildlife Safari
Having listed our recommended parks for the perfect 12 to 14 days Kenya and Tanzania safari, we now look at another important factor. Where and how do you book your safari?
The tour company that you plan and book your safari with determines how much you get out of your safari experience. The online space is full of companies that purport to offer safaris to Africa. The simple rule is, know them before you book with them. Always go for a professionally operated, licensed, experienced and reputable tour operator. That way, you will be dealing with safari consultants who have profound knowledge of the destinations they offer, who will provide accurate and unbiased guidance and a company that will be honest in their pricing. Always know where the company you are booking with is located. A locally based tour operator who is licensed and a member of reputable tour operator associations is highly recommended. With them, you can be sure that you are booking with an ethical, well established company, and that the money that you pay them will be safe in their hands. (There are a few instances where guests have booked online, only to arrive and find that the company they paid does not exist). Booking with a professional tour operator also means that you will be allocated a professional and passionate safari guide and also allocated quality, well equipped safari vehicle. This will ensure seamless operation of your safari and you will benefit a lot from the knowledge of the safari guide.
Some of the Memberships that quality tour operators in Kenya and Tanzania belong to are the Kenya Association of Tour Operators, Tanzania Association of Tour Operators and the American Society of Travel Advisors (ASTA).
WHICH IS THE BEST TIME BOOK MY KENYA AND TANZANIA SAFARI?
When it comes to African safaris, the earlier you book the better. This is because of the limited number of quality and strategically located safari lodges and camps inside the parks. Booking at least one year before your arrival especially for the months of June to September would help you secure some of the best lodges. You can pay at least 30% of the total safari and clear the balance at least 60 days to your arrival date. If not in a position to book early, you can book anytime, but you might miss out on staying in some of the best safari lodges and camps as they will be fully booked.
Essenia Safari Experts Ltd offers expertly crafted safaris to Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda. You can book a safari to one of the countries or one that combines two or three of them. Some of the most popular Kenya and Tanzania combined safaris are the 12 days Kenya and Tanzania Highlights Safari which can be booked for any month of the year, and the 8 Days Masai Mara and Serengeti Migration Safari which focusses on the annual wildebeest migration between the months of July and October. Please feel free to CONTACT US should you need a safari tailor made to suit your interests, pace and budget.
Which park is Best between Serengeti and Masai Mara?
SERENGETI OR MASAI MARA, WHICH IS BEST TO VISIT FOR SAFARI?
For many ardent wildlife safari lovers looking for an authentic African wildlife safari experience, the first destinations that come to mind are Kenya and Tanzania which are home to the leading national parks of Masai Mara and the Serengeti. For those planning to visit East Africa for the first time, the second question that comes to mind is which one to visit first between these two world renowned parks.
As destination experts who have traversed these two iconic wildlife reserves several times over many years, we are here to guide you into making an informed decision, by taking you through the finer details of each park.
But before we start describing these two amazing destinations, one thing worth mentioning is that both Masai Mara National Reserve and Serengeti National Park share the same eco system. In fact, they are part of each other, only divided by political boundaries.
Covering an area of 14,570 sq. km, the Serengeti, derives its name from the Maa language of the nomadic Masai who originally inhabited this land. “Siringet” means endless plains or the plains that tend to extend. The Masai who are the ancestral inhabitants of Serengeti came up with this word in reference to the vast and seemingly endless plains of this national park which is located in northern Tanzania.
On the other, the Masai Mara National Reserve which is located in south western Kenya derived its name from the same Masai tribesmen. This is the place that the Masai used to call the land with “mottled plains” in reference to Masai Mara’s vast plains whose habitat seems from a distance to be dotted with spotted circles of mainly Acacia trees, Savannah, Scrubs and cloud shadows that are synonymous with the Masai Mara. Although located in Kenya, the Masai Mara which covers an area of 1,510 sq. km is in fact an extension of the Serengeti to the north, with only the Mara River and political boundaries putting the two apart. Comparing the size of both parks, Masai Mara which is smaller and with a high wildlife to area ratio offers one advantage when it comes to ease of seeing the BIG CATS from close quarters. On a lucky day, it is not unusual to come across some if not all members of the big five within a 3 hours game drive.
Both the Masai Mara and Serengeti are home to prides of Lions, Herds of African Elephants and Buffalos, Towers of Masai Giraffes, Clans of spotted Hyenas, Dazzles of Zebras, Schools of Hippos, Troops of Baboons, Black Rhinos, Jackals, Foxes among others. The plains of both reserves are teeming with hundreds to thousands of antelopes; impalas, gazelles, topi, hartebeest, eland and yes, the wildebeests that consist of both the resident and migrant herds. Cheetahs, Leopards and even rare cats like Serval Cats and Caracals are also present in both parks.
Until to now, I know you might still be asking, “so do I first visit Masai Mara, Serengeti or both”?
Our answer is, if you have time and resources, visit both of them on a Kenya and Tanzania Safari that we can tailor make for you.
If you can’t manage to visit both at a go, you are still guaranteed an amazing safari viewing experience, mainly depending on the number of nights you spend, the location of your lodge or camp and your choice of safari operator. We mention the latter because it is always important to book your safari with a professional and seasoned company whose safari consultants understand the destinations immensely, and who will of course allocate you an excellent, knowledgeable guide and safari vehicle. When doing the final price comparison, often this company will not offer the cheapest quote, since cheap turns out to be expensive in some cases. They will however have a reasonable quote depending on your budget and choice of accommodation.
DESCRIPTION AND COMPARISION OF THE MASAI MARA AND SERENGETI
Based on our experience in travelling the length and breadth of the Serengeti for over 10 years, and traversing the Masai Mara – both the main reserve and Mara Triangle as well as the many private conservancies for over 15 years, let’s offer you a comparison of these two iconic parks that attract the highest number of tourists to East Africa. As I had mentioned before, they share the same grassland ecosystem and host the greatest wildlife spectacle on earth- The Wildebeest Migration.
You may have read and seen from several sources that the scenery offered by these two amazing areas is “Open Grassland”. To a large extent, this is true. However, it would only be 100% true that Masai Mara and Serengeti are savannah grasslands if compared to desert, jungle and mountains. However, those who have observed the two parks more keenly will agree that there is a huge variation when you consider the terrain, scenery and habitat of the Mara – Serengeti ecosystem.
Southern Serengeti extending all the way to the Ngorongoro Conservation area which also incorporates the Lake Ndutu area forms the largest, flattest, seemingly never-ending short grass plains. This is the area where the great herds of thousands of migrant wildebeests’ roam and also give birth (calving season), from December to March. This is the time of the year when the area enjoys an abundance of water and fresh, soft grass just after the short rains season from November to December.
However, a move slightly north sees the vegetation change to the breathtakingly beautiful sweeping plains found in Central and Eastern Serengeti. These predominantly long grass plains intersected by Rivers and dotted with Simba, Masai and Moru Kopjes (Granite Rocky Outcrops) from which the “Pride Rock” in the Lion King Movie drew inspiration are to many the epitome of The Serengeti Experience, a typical Serengeti that offers a feeling of beauty and abundant space.
A move further to western and northern Serengeti introduces you to a hillier area that offers a different landscape. Here, you will also observe significantly more woodland, although the wide-open plains remain within your vicinity as clearly evident in the Wogakuria Hills in northern Serengeti. At the foot of these stunning hills, you will find the Mara River cutting across the north western sector of the Serengeti in an area which provides a location where some of the best River Crossings that one is likely to witness take place.
Looking across the border is Kenya where you will find most of Masai Mara’s sweeping open plains located right inside the officially gazetted Masai Mara National reserve, which also includes the Mara Triangle in the reserve’s western Corridor. The Mara Triangle is basically the land found to the West of the Crocodile infested Mara River as it cuts its way southwards through the world-famous reserve. From here, the stunning Siria Escarpment offers a back drop, making the Masai Mara picture perfect.
Flanking the Mara River as it creates its path through the reserve is a dense forest, a swathe of green snaking through an otherwise open and seemingly “yellow” landscape.
If you move northwards on your way out of the main (official) reserve, you will end up in the privately managed wildlife conservancies that are more exclusive. Just so that we don’t confuse you, the conservancies are made up of land that the native Masai communities have handed over to private entities for conservation and tourism activities. They keep their livestock away from the land and in return get significant proceeds that are collected through tourism activities. Here, the terrain becomes more diverse. You will come across acacia woodland, rocky escarpments, plateaus, hidden valleys and multiple River courses. Here, the scenery can keep on changing as you move from the vast “Aitong Plains” area to different areas like the aptly named “Leopard Gorge”.
Found in abundance in all the various habitats that we have covered is a plethora of wildlife. One could say with confidence that there is no other part of the world that can boast to have the amount and species of wildlife that the Serengeti – Mara ecosystem hosts, especially if we focus more on land mammals. A huge number of herbivores like Thomson and Grants Gazelle is supported by the vast grassland ecosystem. Wildebeest, Zebra, Eland and Wildebeest which also form part of the great migration thrive here together with large numbers of Giraffes, Buffalos, Elephants, Hippopotamus, Hartebeest, Topi, Impala among others species. In the circle of life, prey is the main source of food for predators so you are guaranteed to come across Lions, Cheetahs, Leopards, Spotted Hyenas, marauding packs of Wild Dogs and the ferocious Crocodiles that inhabit the Mara and Grumeti Rivers.
This leads us to the most important question. Between the Masai Mara and Serengeti, which park could claim to have a better wildlife viewing experience than the other? This is for sure not an easy question to answer. In honesty and based on our years of travel between these two iconic parts, it would not be fair or even correct to say that one is better than the other. Looking through the finer details though, we can pick out a few points that can help you decide for yourself.
With the Serengeti being bigger in size (9 times the size of Masai Mara), and some parts of it having a lower concentration of wildlife than others, (eastern and northern Serengeti except the area neighboring the Mara River), one would favor Masai Mara. Besides being larger in size, the Serengeti which is a park has fewer driving tracks compared to Masai Mara which is a smaller reserve, with authorities having created more driving tracks. This gives the Mara an advantage in that the wildlife concentration is high, with more driving tracks also offering guests higher chances of getting up close with the Big Cats and other animals. It is not unusual to views Lions and Cheetahs in the Serengeti from hundreds of meters and even kilometers away.
The Serengeti also happens to be mote seasonal with the vegetation and game viewing experience changing quite dramatically during some months. Case in mind is the short grass plains of Southern Serengeti. These are usually dry and lacking in pasture and fresh water especially between July and October. The drier and harsher environment drives both prey and predator away, making the game viewing experience less exciting as it usually is between the wet and rainy green season of December to May.
Comparatively, The Masai Mara although also having different seasons, including the migration season from July to October still has plenty of resident game that does not migrate. Although the reserve also suffers from severe drought and harsh conditions just like the Serengeti, random rains do fall at any time of the year thus making the conditions fairer.
Moving away from the game viewing and the animals that you are likely to see; we now look at optional activities that enhance your safari experience. In both the Serengeti and Masai Mara (main reserve), your game drives are mainly restricted by authorities to between 0600 hrs and 1800 hrs. You are also restricted to well traversed driving paths which you have to stick to. In the Serengeti, there are very few places where walking safaris or night game drives are permitted. The case is however different in Masai Mara’s private wildlife conservancies. Here, you have an option for night game drives, walking safaris and even off-road driving. Although this is not offered at all the camps, it offers an enhanced wildlife experience to the discerning traveler. It is also worth noting that the private conservancies have fewer tourists, and the guides here adhere strictly to park regulations. Unlike the other parts of the reserve, here you can spend hours around a pride of Lions or a Cheetah family just by yourselves, or in the company of very few other safari jeeps.
When it comes to witnessing the wildebeest migration, the timing of your safari matters most, whether it is in the Masai Mara or Serengeti. With the Masai Mara, this happens between July and October, although herds have been recorded arriving in June and leaving in September. The last few years have also seen the herds return to Serengeti in late August, only to return to Masai Mara towards October, its all nature and instinct driven.
If you want to witness the migration in the Serengeti, it happens almost all year round. From December to April, you need to be in the south, May and June are the months it happens in Central and Western parts of the park. From July to November, the phenomenon takes place in the north around Bologonja and Kogatende crossing over to the Masai Mara.
If you are keen on seeing the River crossings, the months of July to October offer you the best chance. You can witness the migrating herds of wildebeests and Zebras make that “plunge of life or death” across the crocodile infested Mara River from either the Masai Mara or Serengeti, as well as smaller Rivers like the Talek River in Masai Mara and the Grumeti River in Serengeti. While Masai Mara has been known traditionally as the best place to see the River crossings, the opening up of the northern part of the Serengeti for camps to be built has seen the region steal some limelight from the Mara. Northern Serengeti has a good number of crossings points where one can camp waiting for the “out of this world show” to take place.
If you are after seeing predators, the Mara, with its several prides of Lions inhabiting a smaller area probably has an edge over the Serengeti. Cheetahs are known to favour open, flat grasslands from where they can monitor both prey and enemies. This would make Serengeti their favorite. However, the open plains all the way from Sopa area all the way to Talek and extending all the way to the conservancies are areas that abound with Cheetah population in the Masai Mara as well. These include the now popular “Tano Bora” or Fast Five coalition of marauding male cheetahs that have been traversing the vast Mara plains since year 2017. The two parks can therefore be considered great for Cheetah viewing.
A factor which is worth considering when looking at your game viewing options is the exclusivity and flexibility of your game viewing experience. Most tourists, especially photographers would wish for a scenario where you can take photos with few safari jeeps around, and with a possibility to drive closer to the wildlife. The private Mara conservancies do often offer that much cherished scenario. On the other hand, a sighting of a Leopard in the central Serengeti plains or a Cheetah in the sweeping southern plains is more likely to attract tens of safari jeeps. The same applies to the main Masai Mara Reserve. This is what makes the private Masai Mara conservancies a better location for your game viewing since the authorities are very strict on the number of safari vehicles that are permitted at a sighting. Often, you can end up savoring the views and taking photos all by yourself, or with only a few other tourists around. This is an important factor for many photographers.
The location of your camp and the area of the Masai Mara or Serengeti where you stay during your visit is another important factor. If not properly guided, you might end up staying at an area where it takes you hours of driving before for get to the prime game viewing areas. This mainly applies to the Serengeti since the Masai Mara has an advantage of having a slightly more condensed game viewing area. Some camps are however located outside the park gates and you can drive for an hour plus before you start seeing some major sightings. That is where a knowledgeable and honest tour operator like us comes in handy once again.
In terms of pricing, it generally costs you more to stay in the Serengeti compared to Masai Mara. Lodges and camps in Tanzania are pricier, and you still have to pay park entrance fees and concession fees on top of accommodation. On the other hand, Masai Mara is not necessarily cheap, but it offers you more accommodation options to choose from. This ranges from decent, budget tented camps that cost as low as around USD 160 per double room per night during the low season, to top luxury tented camps that cost over USD 2,000 per double room per night (including game drives) during the peak season. Unlike the Serengeti, in Masai Mara, you are only charged park entrance or conservancy fees. Both Serengeti and Masai Mara are simply magical and you will always find something unique in each. You can try out our 8 days Masai Mara and Serengeti Migration Safari and feel that witnessing the migration from each of the two regions offered its own unique experience. This is possible by road, and we now have options of flying all the way from the Masai Mara to Serengeti and vice versa, making it possible for you to enjoy your breakfast in one park, and lunch in the other, thus saving you hours of driving.
If the question on your mind right now is the number of nights you need to spend in any of these two parks, the advice that we would give based on time we have spent exploring these amazing destinations is minimum 3 nights in each. This ensures that you enjoy your game drives with no rush, and gives you time to search for some animals like Leopards and Rhinos that often proof elusive. Depending on the time and budget at your disposal, and your main interests during your safari, you may then spend up to 10 nights. This could probably be divided by half between the two fascinating destinations. We highly recommend the longer stays especially if you are a keen photographer, or if you are trailing the migration which can sometimes turn tricky especially when it comes to River crossings.
Normally, most visitors seeking to visit both Masai Mara and Serengeti have an interest in exploring other leading parks in Kenya and Tanzania. There are several options available, including our bestselling- 12 Days Kenya and Tanzania Highlights Safari which is by road, with optional flights between Masai Mara and Serengeti available.
Feel free to contact us for a free quote by a passionate and knowledgeable safari consultant.
A Guide to the Serengeti – Masai Mara Wildebeest Migration
The Wildebeest Migration
This is one activity which is on top of every wildlife safari lover’s bucket list. Yet still, there are other thousands of travelers around the world who have experienced it once, twice or more but still can’t wait to be back to either Serengeti or Masai Mara to catch one more glimpse of the greatest wildlife spectacle on earth.
A wildebeest’s journey begins at birth and only ends at death. Unknown to many, the annual wildebeest migration that involves over 1.5 million wildebeests accompanied by Zebras and other antelopes is more of a life time process rather than an annual event. However, it is the movement between Serengeti in the north and Masai Mara in the south that gets most of the attention, more so because of the epic dives across the Crocodile infested Mara River in search of greener grazing pastures and water on the other side.
In this edition, we take you through the A to Z of the wildebeest migration.
January to March: Wildebeest Calving Season
This is the time when the marauding gnus gather on the wider Ngorongoro conservation area, south of the Serengeti after their long and tedious journey back from the Masai Mara, through the northern part of the Serengeti. At this time, the short rains have just ended and the area has adequate grass and watering spots. The gnus can be seen moving between the open grass savannah, the bushes and even swamps. Calving, one of the most important and interesting chapters in a Gnu’s life happens here between February and March, in what is popularly referred to as the wildebeest calving season. January is a hot month, and most of the females are heavily pregnant. This means that they will soon be giving birth, and tender grass is needed for the young calves to feed on. The Gnus are therefore waiting for the signs of the first rains. Their movement is therefore dictated by signs of rains, and no one knows how they sense the rains. It has been observed in the last few years that Wildebeests can delay giving birth depending on the weather patterns. In years when it has been very dry, and rains have delayed, they have also taken their time before introducing the young ones to the cruel African Savannah. Their movement during this season can be unpredictable, as they can move swiftly from one area to another within days. Once the rains begin, the females give birth (almost all at once) in what is referred to as synchronized birthing. During this window, as many as 8,000 calves are born every day for a period of about 3 weeks, with over half a million new wildebeests being born by the time it’s over.
It’s now rainy and there is enough pasture, and new calves born, translating to lesser movement of the animals. This is a very popular travel season and you have a high chance of witnessing the migration and wildebeest calving season in the Lake Ndutu and Lake Masek area. Considering the fact that a Gnu’s journey is mainly instinct led, this may vary by 10 or 20 kilometres, but without fail the wildebeest herds gather between Ndutu, Matiti Hill, Naabi Hill, the Goll kopjes to the east and Olduvai Gorge. If you want to stay here during this season, there is a selection of a lodge as well as permanent and semi-permanent tented camps to choose from.
Understanding the Synchronized birthing by Wildebeests:
One would wonder why Wildebeests would give birth during the February to March window, and almost all of them at a time. It’s only the Wildebeests that could answer that better, so it’s unfortunate that humans don’t have a way of communicating with them. However, as humans we are blessed with the ability to study and interpret nature.
Wildlife specialists consider the giving birth to many calves at the same time as the Wildebeest’s strategy to saturate predatory activity, as many calves born at the same time have a higher chance of survival than if the births were spread across the year. This is because predators that await the birth of the weak and powerless calves (easy prey) cannot be able to kill all the new born s. Most survive this and the future generation of wildebeests begins here.
It would not be fully correct to say that predators enjoy easy kills. Over the years, Wildebeest mothers have instinctively known to give birth on the shorter grass plains, from where it is easier to spot predators approaching. They are joined by other mothers who form protective barricades around the most vulnerable newly borns in order to ensure that they have a greater chance of survival. If you are in Serengeti around this time, it is not unusual to see protective mothers trying to fight back when big cats like Cheetahs and even Hyenas attack.
With most of the new calves being born at the beginning of the long rains season, the Serengeti teems with soft green grass which makes for a succulent diet for the young calves. As you will note later in this article, the calves need to be strong enough in readiness for the long, risky and tedious journey to Masai Mara. This freshly sprouted grass is therefore important to the new born Wildebeests, meaning that this is an ideal period for them to be born, as they have a better chance of survival into adulthood.
It has been noted that its not only the Wildebeests that give birth around this season. Zebras, Buffalos, Gazelles, Cheetahs, and even Lions are being sighted commonly nursing young ones so you can expect to see a lot of calves, cubs, and foals if you are visiting Tanzania during this time.
April and May: April marks the peak of the long rains season. The wildebeests and their weeks old calves are now following the grazing paths from Southern Serengeti towards the central plains. They will be spending the next two months traversing the central Serengeti plans as they graze. From Naabi Hills all the way to Seronera, Turner Springs and Lake Magadi, herds comprising of different herds of wildebeests can easily be sighted in Central Serengeti during this season, and spreading all the way to Kusini, Simba Kopje and Moru Kopje areas. There is a high presence of big cats here so you can expect breath taking predator and prey actions if you visit during this month. This being the most visited part of the Serengeti there are several lodges and tented camps to choose from.
These include Serengeti Serena Lodge, Kusini Camp, Serengeti Sopa Lodge, Seronera Wildlife Lodge, Serengeti Kati Kati, Ole Serai Luxury Camp- Turner Springs, Ole Serai Luxury Camp- Moru Kopjes, Serengeti Safari Lodge, Four Seasons Serengeti Lodge, Sametu Camp, Serengeti Heritage Camp among many others.
It is important to note that this is a muddy season so you should be ready for some adventure in the black cotton mud.
By end of May, the central Serengeti plains are becoming dry, and the pastures depleted. The migration has by now gained momentum and the migrating herds move towards the Grumeti River on the western Serengeti corridor. Due to the dispersal of the moving herds, it might take you hours driving between the leading herds and the tail end. Some herds may already be in Mbalageti and others as far as Nyamuma Hills. Huge herds can be seen congregating along the pools and channels of the Grumeti River which they need to cross in order to continue with their journey. (The River hasn’t had much water around this time in the last few years but that could change in the future). The River is crocodile infested but you may not see spectacular crossings and encounters like you might see on the Mara River.
There are not many lodges located West of the Serengeti so its recommended that you book your safari as early as possible. Some of the Lodges and camps located in this area are Mbalageti Lodge, Grumeti Migration Camp, Olakira Camp, Asanja Grumeti Camp and Kirawira Serena Camp.
From July, the Serengeti is now dry, and the landscape arid. This is the mating season, and the time the migrating herds are crossing the Mara River. There is no better time to witness River Crossings. The migration is now moving faster in pursuit of water and greener pastures.
August is the month when the migration is most constant. You have a great chance of witnessing River Crossings both from the Serengeti and Masai Mara side. The herds can be seen north of the Serengeti, south east of Masai Mara around the Sand River and in the central Masai Mara plains. They will then spread over moving to the Mara Triangle and other areas of the vast reserve. Between now and September, the Mara will be home to big herds of the migrating herds, although some have been seen to remain in Northern Serengeti over the last few years. (This has been occasioned by irregular rain patterns that ensure that there is adequate pasture both in northern Serengeti and Masai Mara). Herds have even been seen crossing to the Masai Mara only to turn towards the Serengeti after a few days, and vice versa). During this season, there are a few permanent and semi-permanent tented camps strategically located along the Kogatende and Bologonja areas in northern Serengeti.
In Masai Mara, there are several lodges and camps that offer you close proximity to where the action is taking place. In Central Maasai Mara, there are many lodges and camps to choose from, all located a few hours drive to the Mara River with en route game drives. If you want to be closer to the River, Ashnil Mara Camp, Mara Serena Safari Lodge, Entim Mara Camp, Governors Camp, Mara Crossings Camp, Mara River Camp, Rekero Camp, Mara Intrepids, Mara Explorer are some of the options to choose from. If you want to combine big cat sightings and the migration trail, camps located along the Talek River would be ideal. These Include, Fig Tree Camp, Mara Leisure Camp, Tipilikwani Mara Camp, Base Camp Masai Mara, Il Keliani, Azure Mara Haven and Mara Simba Lodge. They are all located along a prime game viewing area, and about two hours to some of the major crossing points.
In August and September, the concentration of Lions, Cheetahs, Leopard, Cheetahs and other predators near the migrating herds is high. You are likely to experience successful hunts, find predators or scavengers on a kill, or resting by the shades after enjoying a heavy meal.
By October, the migration is almost completing the cycle and scattered herds are heading southwards. By early November they have moved from Kenya to the eastern limits of the Serengeti. They retrace their steps north via Lobo and by December, they are spread around the Southern part. From here, they are joined by herds of Zebra and other plains game and are venturing deep into the southern plains where the vegetation is lush after the rains. The calving season will soon begin, and the Great Migrations continues to move rhythmically in a clockwise direction.
In as much as we have tried to be as accurate as possible, please note that this is only a guide based on our observation of the wildebeest migration over the years. The migration is however a natural, instinct led activity mainly motivated by pursuit of pasture and water. The wildlife moving patterns may therefore vary from time to time. We are available to offer tailor made safari packages based on accurate to near accurate movements.
Need a safari customized to suit your taste, budget and pace? Write to us on: holidays@esseniasafaris.co.ke.